How to switch from AT&T and save — the complete guide

AT&T postpaid typically charges $50–$110 for a single line before taxes and fees. Meanwhile, Cricket, US Mobile, Red Pocket, Consumer Cellular and H2O all sell service on the same AT&T towers for $25–$60 a month — every one of them is in our plan finder at exactly the prices quoted in this guide. Take a typical $70 AT&T line and move it to US Mobile's $25 plan on AT&T's network and you save $45 a month — $540 a year — with the same number, the same phone and the same coverage map. Here's the whole switch, in the right order.

Why switching off AT&T saves money

You're not paying AT&T's premium for better towers — the budget carriers above literally rent AT&T's network. The premium pays for AT&T's stores, its phone-financing machine, bundled perks, and top-tier data priority at the most congested moments. What you give up when you switch is mostly those extras: some plans deprioritize data in packed stadiums, support is chat-first instead of store-first, and streaming perks bundled into old AT&T plans don't follow you. What you keep is the part that matters day to day — coverage, your number and your phone. For most households the math isn't close: even after re-buying a streaming perk separately, switchers come out hundreds ahead per year.

Step 1 — Check your phone is unlocked and compatible

Do this before you order anything. A locked phone will reject the new carrier's SIM or eSIM no matter how good the deal is.

• Is it paid off? If you're on an AT&T installment plan, check the remaining balance in the myAT&T app. You can still switch, but AT&T will bill the full remaining balance on your final bill — so know the number before you port, not after.
• Check the lock status. On iPhone: Settings → General → About → Carrier Lock. If it says "No SIM restrictions," you're unlocked. On Android, dial *#06# to get your IMEI and run it through the new carrier's free compatibility checker — if it passes, the phone is unlocked and supported.
• AT&T's unlock rules. AT&T unlocks free when the device is paid in full, was bought 60+ days ago, your account is current with no past-due balance, and the phone hasn't been reported lost or stolen. Request it at AT&T's device unlock support page — most approvals land within two business days, and iPhones unlock remotely once approved. (On AT&T Prepaid rather than postpaid? Prepaid devices generally need six months of paid service first.)
• Compatibility. Most iPhone 11+ and Galaxy S20+ models work on all three US networks. The IMEI check on the new carrier's site is the decider — if it passes there, you're fine.

Step 2 — Pick your cheaper plan (all on AT&T towers)

These are the AT&T-network plans from our catalog, at the same prices the finder shows:

Not sure which fits? Run your actual AT&T bill through the plan finder — it matches plans to your line count and data use, with family pricing applied.

Step 3 — Get your number transfer PIN (keep your number)

Porting is how you keep your number, and AT&T requires two things: your account number (top of your bill, or in myAT&T) and a Number Transfer PIN. Get the PIN one of two ways:

• Dial *PORT (that's *7678) from the AT&T phone you're moving, or
• In the myAT&T app: Profile → Sign-in info → Get number transfer PIN.

Two things people get wrong: the transfer PIN is not your account passcode — it's a separate, temporary code. And it expires after about 4 days, so generate it the day you're ready to activate, not the week before. Then the golden rule: do not cancel your AT&T line first. Your new carrier ports the number, and that port closes the AT&T line automatically. Cancel first and the number is gone.

Step 4 — Activate and port

1. Order your new plan online and choose "transfer my number" at checkout.
2. Enter your AT&T account number and transfer PIN exactly as they appear on your AT&T account — the name and billing ZIP must match too. A mismatch is the #1 cause of a stalled port.
3. Activate the eSIM (scan the QR code) or insert the new SIM — but keep your AT&T SIM/eSIM active until your phone shows the new carrier's name.
4. Ports between major carriers typically complete in 10–30 minutes. Test with Wi-Fi off: make a call, send a text, load a web page.
5. Your AT&T line closes on its own when the port lands. Expect one final bill (see timing below).

Switched but data or picture messages aren't working? That's an APN setting, not a failed switch — grab your new carrier's APN settings here and restart.

Timing it right

• Port near the end of your billing cycle. AT&T generally doesn't prorate the final month on postpaid, so leaving on day 2 of a cycle means paying for weeks you didn't use. A few days before the cycle rolls over is the sweet spot.
• Mind the 4-day PIN window. Generate the transfer PIN when your new SIM/eSIM is in hand and you're ready to activate.
• The device payoff lands once. Any remaining installment balance appears on your final bill. If a new carrier is running a pay-off-your-phone promo, screenshot your final AT&T bill — you'll need it to claim reimbursement, usually within a set window.
• Watch and tablet lines are separate. A connected Apple Watch (NumberSync) or tablet line doesn't ride along with your phone number's port. Re-add the watch on your new carrier if it offers watch plans, and cancel the AT&T connected line yourself so it doesn't keep billing.

Pitfalls to avoid

• Cancelling AT&T before the port finishes — the single most expensive mistake; you lose the number permanently.
• Handing over your account passcode instead of the transfer PIN — the port will reject, and it's the most common delay.
• Typos in name, account number or ZIP — they must match AT&T's records character for character.
• Assuming "paid off" means "unlocked" — verify "No SIM restrictions" before you order.
• Letting the transfer PIN expire — about 4 days goes fast; regenerate it if your activation slips.
• Porting the day before a trip — switch when you have an unhurried hour at home on Wi-Fi, not from an airport.